Remember this term: Puertas Cerradas I say this because the speakeasy movement -according to Condé Naste - has reached BA, but it's not stopping at underground bars and drinking establishments. San Francisco has the food equivalent in the form of "supper clubs", dinner at undisclosed kitchens by chef's looking to break out from their normal menu's by experimenting on their friends. Buenos Aires is no different if you visit Chef Diego Felix.
Tucked behind a typical apartamento in the Chacarita barrio of BA is the kitchen of Diego Felix. It's also where he and his wife, Sandra, live. Taking your work home with you doesn't apply here - Diego serves up a 5 course menu IN is home. You and up to 15 others get to sample some of the best food Diego can conjure up - with herbs and items from his backyard garden, to fish and carne from vendors in and around BA. So let's begin...
Diego and Sandra greeted us warmly at the door to their hidden restaurant/apartamento. Being the Americans we are, we arrived first. Food dorks. They gave us a tour of their wonderfully laid out dwelling, passing through the kitchen where two of Diego's friends were helping prepare for the nights food. The backyard served as a garden for a variety of items that were to be used in the evening's meal. A round of pisco sours were given as a welcome drink and after meeting the other guests, we were seated and ready to begin.
A basket of warm bread with a white bean + red bell pepper spread was served along with a garnish of herb from the garden. The open patio, draped with colorful flags and painted tree silhouettes were our view for the rest of the evening.
Botana - Our first course arrived in a green suizo sauce. The dish consisted of sauteed oyster mushrooms over causa in a suizo sauce, arugula flowers and a chili infused oil. The blend was a wonderful profile of flavors that wasn't overwhelming for a first course. The chili infused oil was subtle yet invigorating to the mouth.
Appetizer
- Our second consisted of an app, artistically laid out in a sort of Indian style work of art - a grilled Mbeyù (a fried tapioca flour flat bread of the Guarani Indians), papaya and cucumber salad with a mandarin vinaigrette. A sprinkle of chili baked peanuts offered an interesting and refreshing nutty heat. The cucumber salad was a nice topping choice, giving off a scent of freshness along with a citrus tinge from the mandarin dressing.
Time for a break and palette cleanse. I'm often skeptical of these types of phases in a meal, as I often find them to be over stated indulgences by a chef to impress us with artistry (food equivalent of smoke and mirrors). This was not the case with Diego. A simple "Intermezze" was served to us that was simplistic in presentation but timed perfectly for what was about to come. The melon and burrito granita was a slushy but refreshing shot to help invigorate the mouth.
Main Course - Here is where Diego's true colors shine. Now, I don't want to use cliche terms like "an artist with an empty canvas", but I will say this: I was amazed at how he put all these ingredients together in such a way that would defy the very words spelled out to us on the menu. Chamomile and Fish? Garden greens and salsa criolla (usually used on steak!). Our main course arrived, an achiote marinated sandperch, pea and chamomile puree, garden greens and salsa criolla. The fish was evenly seared to such a perfection, that I couldn't believe 17 others' dishes were the same. I had to look around to see, and yes, they were. This is no small feat, even in a restaurant kitchen. I dove in with the anxiousness of a child opening Christmas presents. My first bite was a mix of salsa criolla, perch and greens. I was more confused trying to conjure an image of where I would be in the world eating a dish like this - Cuba? Puerto Rico? - but that's where Diego's creativity is truly shown, his dishes are inspired by a variety of regions in South America that you just have to simply forget where a dish like this would be served and enjoy the foods flavor. Complex in presentation, yet simple in delivery of flavor, distinct tastes perked my mouth with every bite. The fish was light and seared perfectly, all of it seemed powerful in flavor yet not too heavy in consumption. By now, we had been at Casa Felix for over two hours! Time seems to fly when you are enjoying your surroundings and admiring the food that was so well prepared in execution: non-over stated presentation, creative flavor profiles that shocked (when read on the menu) and awed (in flavor), and a feeling that you have had a truly unique meal prepared just for you - this is due to the ever changing creativity and discovery that Diego does in his kitchen. The chamomile was picked on a walk he recently did in BA. It inspired him to create this dish. BA is truly his empty canvas.
Dessert - Our coconut and lavender cream pie was served with a splatter of honey. It was a fabulous way to end the meal. Like a great first date, I wanted to make another reservation to see what Diego would conjure up next. If you get a chance to visit Buenos Aires, Casa Felix is a MUST for you. Leave all your Gary Danko, French Laundry, Michael Mina and Le Cirque snobbery at the door. Diego prepares his meal with such passion and personalization that you couldn't get at such places. Get a taste for Buenos Aires here, practice your Culinary Spanish and expand your food horizons by making a reservation for the very limited seatings. I will be back, if Diego will take me. Ciao.
